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 1 
 on: August 15, 2018, 01:23:39 PM 
Started by SeaWolf - Last post by SeaWolf
Has anyone milled an New Frontier C-45 billet on the new 80%arms Easy Jig Gen 2 Multiplatform™ 80% lower jig (capable of finishing AR-15, AR-9, and DPMS gen 1 pattern .308 80% lowers)?
https://www.80percentarms.com/collections/lower-jigs/products/easy-jig-gen-2-combined-ar-15-and-308-jig?

https://www.newfrontierarmory.com/shop/80-c-45-billet-lower/

I saw an old post where someone did manage to do just this with some modifications to the GEN 1 Jig. The billet is supposedly MILSPEC except for the mag well/release & ejector.  I would think since you are only milling the trigger pocket and it should fit the GEN 2 Jig, this would work.  From 80percent arms: " The New Frontier Armory Lower receivers should work with any of the GEN 2 Jigs as long as it is still a mil spec pattern."

BTW here's a pre-coated version someone was looking for:
 https://www.ghostguns.com/home/338-black-ar45-10mm-45-acp-80-percent-lower-receiver.html

 2 
 on: August 06, 2018, 09:09:23 AM 
Started by Gunsmithalot - Last post by Gunsmithalot
Hi to all, I'm a newbie here and wanted to share a good supplier for parts kits I found through a Gunsmith friend. I have already bought a Colt AR kit for an 80% build and am looking at parts for a PF940 I am planning on doing, the prices are better then what I have been finding for Glock factory parts elsewhere. Its: everygunpart.com thanks for all the solid info I have gotten here, I figured it was time I contribute as well.

 3 
 on: July 27, 2018, 11:23:21 AM 
Started by jimmyjimjam - Last post by jimmyjimjam
Couple questions.  First, which parts would you use for a reasonably priced Glock 32 build (already got the Polymer 80)?  Which slide, barrel, etc.

Second, which parts from above would you change out so you have a ported barrel and slide?  Thanks.

 4 
 on: July 21, 2018, 06:36:42 AM 
Started by COBrien - Last post by Jefe
Welcome, Chase! The anodizing shop should do any surface prep work but some raw receivers need more work than others. For example, I used a Nodak Spud receiver and it needed to have some casting flashing sanded off. If you're going to have the receivers engraved you might want to do that before they are machined into "firearms" so any engraving shop can do the work and not just a shop with a license to do so. The same goes for the anodizing. If it is machined into a lower receiver the shop will need a license to work on firearms. Cause government.

Thanks for the warm welcome, Jefe!

As far as the FFL restrictions, I've already considered that. Fortunately, both my local jeweler/engraver/gun pusher and the local anodizing shop are FFLs. Having said that, though, I think I'll go ahead and have any engraving and anodizing done before any work is completed on the lower.

If your guys can do the work after machining then definitely do that. You don't want to put money into engraving and then have the possibility of screwing up the lower, especially on your first one(s). And ideally anodizing should be done after machining so the parts you drill/mill will be anodized and dyed too.

 5 
 on: July 20, 2018, 10:53:32 AM 
Started by FirstTimeForEverything - Last post by FirstTimeForEverything
Quote from: COBrien

Do you have a link to the reamers you bought/used? That actually sounds like a better plan than a plain ol' drill bit anyway.


Well you are still going to need to have a drill press. When I drilled out the hole i had to align the drill with the hole making sure it was in the center since it will be smaller than the hole on the jig plate. Then drilling it and if you can find reamers that are the same length as your drill you can just switch them and ream right through. But reamers are tipicaly longer. I'm actually a tool grinder so I made my own reamers. There are a couple of websites that you can get reamers from. Most places sell them in sets though.
 
Hope this helps.


 6 
 on: July 20, 2018, 09:16:49 AM 
Started by FirstTimeForEverything - Last post by COBrien
I did not have the drill stabilizer. My buddy has it and it still feels looser than I would like. I recommend that if you do use the hand drill set your jig on the ground and get as sturdy as possible. The side without the detent hole worked OK but didn't have a good finish but would work. I ended up getting some reamers and thats how I will do the rest of mine.

Do you have a link to the reamers you bought/used? That actually sounds like a better plan than a plain ol' drill bit anyway.

 7 
 on: July 20, 2018, 09:15:09 AM 
Started by COBrien - Last post by COBrien
Welcome, Chase! The anodizing shop should do any surface prep work but some raw receivers need more work than others. For example, I used a Nodak Spud receiver and it needed to have some casting flashing sanded off. If you're going to have the receivers engraved you might want to do that before they are machined into "firearms" so any engraving shop can do the work and not just a shop with a license to do so. The same goes for the anodizing. If it is machined into a lower receiver the shop will need a license to work on firearms. Cause government.

Thanks for the warm welcome, Jefe!

As far as the FFL restrictions, I've already considered that. Fortunately, both my local jeweler/engraver/gun pusher and the local anodizing shop are FFLs. Having said that, though, I think I'll go ahead and have any engraving and anodizing done before any work is completed on the lower.

 8 
 on: July 19, 2018, 07:27:48 PM 
Started by COBrien - Last post by Jefe
Howdy folks! My name is Chase, and I'm delving into the world of 80% receivers with a bit of goading by my father in law.

I've built a couple of small frame ARs from 4473'ed lowers, and my FIL started asking me about 80s. So I decided he and I will build a rifle for him this year for Christmas. From an 80% lower (which he will do all machining work on).

I've ordered up an Easy Jig G2 and the necessary tools, and just pulled the trigger on a raw 80% Cerro lower and raw Cerro upper from RTB. I'm planning on having both the 80% and the upper anodized at the same time by a local anodizing shop (trying to ensure a good color match, and I ordered deep safety engraving).

My first question: Are raw receivers ready to be anodized as-received? Or is there some fine finishing that needs to be done beforehand?

I look forward to learning a lot about 80%s and the process. Maybe even contribute a bit once I learn some stuff.

Welcome, Chase! The anodizing shop should do any surface prep work but some raw receivers need more work than others. For example, I used a Nodak Spud receiver and it needed to have some casting flashing sanded off. If you're going to have the receivers engraved you might want to do that before they are machined into "firearms" so any engraving shop can do the work and not just a shop with a license to do so. The same goes for the anodizing. If it is machined into a lower receiver the shop will need a license to work on firearms. Cause government.

 9 
 on: July 19, 2018, 12:59:38 PM 
Started by FirstTimeForEverything - Last post by FirstTimeForEverything
I did not have the drill stabilizer. My buddy has it and it still feels looser than I would like. I recommend that if you do use the hand drill set your jig on the ground and get as sturdy as possible. The side without the detent hole worked OK but didn't have a good finish but would work. I ended up getting some reamers and thats how I will do the rest of mine.

 10 
 on: July 18, 2018, 10:15:16 AM 
Started by FirstTimeForEverything - Last post by COBrien
The drilling I messed up on. The safety selector hole has a detent hole and when I was drilling though the drill caught that hole and whipped the drill around and over sized the hole. yes I was trying to do this with a hand drill because my drill press was to small, I do not recommend using a hand drill. The holes on the jig plate have to much slop to ever get it right. Now it did work just fine for the trigger pins.

Did you order/use the 'Hand Drill Stabilizers'?

I'm curious, because I just ordered an EJ2, with the stabilizers, and am hoping those will help with the slop you described.

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