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 1 
 on: Today at 10:36:44 AM 
Started by helidude350 - Last post by akhunter
Nice job & thanks for the update. I am looking for deals on parts.

 2 
 on: June 24, 2017, 08:05:35 AM 
Started by Jefe - Last post by helidude350
Looked into it.
Now i NEEEEEED one.

Definately a contender for top spot. i just need hands on.

the new mill may work with the older jig and modulus jig.

the only thing next is a 0% jig..........  i'm on it !!!

 3 
 on: June 24, 2017, 07:37:09 AM 
Started by Jefe - Last post by helidude350
plus one on the separate guide.
 akward to use on top plate and impossible with the bucket method. I would find it annoying and maybe catch fingers near a power tool.
Can substitute with a cheap combo square from wally world or home depot.
I use my guide as i go and mark it with a sharpie to check for tool creep or keep track of my progress if i get pulled away.

Ill have to check it out. My christmas list may have gotten longer.


Maybe the vendors could sponser a challenge...... How fast can a poly lower  be finished on each jig ?  eparmory has that cheap bulk deal

 4 
 on: June 24, 2017, 06:01:40 AM 
Started by helidude350 - Last post by helidude350
Of note:
 I used my g35 ( 40sw ) stock glock slide assy for testing. I didnt borrow parts for the lower. The kit installed in the lower is stock glock 17 etc. ( 9mm ). The ejector is slightly different, kinda straight for the 40 and slightly bent for the 9mm. I didnt have any issues. Im not sure if it would be an issue with a different combination.  The 40 ejector may pass 9mm casings by.   Ill try to remember to compare the g26 and g27 that I have access to.

The glock store has some informative videos on you tube that i have found to be helpful along with poly 80 and others. Check him out.

 5 
 on: June 24, 2017, 05:48:07 AM 
Started by helidude350 - Last post by helidude350
I checked several times that the trigger fuctioned properly and wasnt going to " go off accidently".
Checked that it would feed and eject by racking the slide. No Issues so off to the range.

 6 
 on: June 24, 2017, 05:35:44 AM 
Started by helidude350 - Last post by helidude350
I did this in a pull stroke for better control.

 7 
 on: June 24, 2017, 05:33:05 AM 
Started by helidude350 - Last post by helidude350
I didnt start with this because I didnt have a lower parts kit. I recomend using the lower pin with the locking block and the screws to aid in aligning your slide to the rear rails. After I had been fitting it for a while, I realized my error and used the drill bit to align the block. ( aligning the block with the screws and pins is a feat itself. I managed to do this without grinding or wobbling any holes out to make it fit. more on that later. )

I deviated from the instructions again fitting the rails.
Based on the measurments I was geting and the fittment of the slide, I determined that I needed more of a depth cut than thinning the rails. So I used new hacksaw blades. 24 tooth for rough, then finish with 32 tooth. Sawzall blades a a tad wider, so they might have been a better choice for this one.
I got the slide to fit pretty smooth but not loose. No lube.
When my parts kit came in ( and after paint ), I installed the kit and did the final fitting.
It only took a few strokes per side. Added a couple drops of wd40 and it was slick.

 8 
 on: June 24, 2017, 05:12:42 AM 
Started by helidude350 - Last post by helidude350
Iver read and seen things about the rear rails being an issue, or these not functioning correctly, or not "wearing in " or the plastic wil crack.
I dont see an issue. The rear rails are mostly a guide o keep the slide from wobbling around.
The locking block and its rails take most of the stress.
If you dont force it, take your time and make small adjustments until it works smooth you should have no problems.

I used my calipers to compare the slide to the rails as I went.
I noticed as the slide started to fit on, the rails could squeeze inward. I think this is one place that others that had problems may have tried to orce the slide on and make it produce the rails. That will cause problems for sure.

 9 
 on: June 24, 2017, 04:41:11 AM 
Started by helidude350 - Last post by helidude350
I didn't get my jig true at first, so I cleaned it up a bit before I cut the guide rod path.
Then I trued up the lower. This left a minor blemish on the lower that I cleaned up with sand paper.
When I cut the mass down, I used a Ez jig mill because it's what I had.
I discovered that the dewalt can adjust a tiny bit more than the ridged because of this. I had tried using the dewalt when I was crafting my jig on the fly, so I was disappointed to find the flaw in my design when I tried to use the ridged cordless router.
When I tweaked it and cleaned it up I had an actual router bit ( I'm still collecting these) so it worked without issue.

 10 
 on: June 24, 2017, 04:27:27 AM 
Started by helidude350 - Last post by helidude350
Sorry for the fuzzy pics.
It's a hassle to email and resize them to myself . Even if the kb are low enough, emailing them still makes them too big.
Pm me an email or phone number if you need something with better quality or a different view.

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