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Topics - mykall

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1
80% Lower Deals / EP Armory Polys on sale
« on: May 17, 2017, 07:53:22 AM »
I just checked their web site and eparmory.com has kevlar poly lowers selling for $24.99.  Not sure how long this will last.

2
Main 80% Lower Discussion / 5D Tactical router based Jig
« on: April 03, 2017, 09:39:37 AM »
http://www.5dtactical.com/


The main thing about this jig is that your router shaft never touches the inside
of the guide.  Your router follows a track cut into the top of the jig.  Also you
drill only two guide holes and route the rest of FC pocket.  This may solve a couple
of current problems with router based JIGs.

3
80% Lower Deals / EP ARMORY 80% Kevlar Poly lowers $24.99
« on: June 09, 2016, 02:24:35 PM »
EP Armory still has their kevlar reinforced poly lowers on sale for $24.99  I thought this would end after Memorial Day
but the sale is still going.

5
General Firearm Forum / ar 15 cleaning: Cat tool vs Bone tool
« on: November 21, 2015, 09:53:26 AM »
Has anyone used both of these and have any comments?

Cat tool:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/combination-tools/ar-15-m15-cat-tool-prod31857.aspx

Bone tool:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/combination-tools/5-56-b-o-n-e-tool-prod57170.aspx

Bone tool is definitely bulkier which is a consideration, but I'm more interested in cleaning ability.

6
General Firearm Forum / AR-10 VS .308 Rifle felt recoil
« on: November 05, 2015, 08:38:06 PM »
I was thinking of building an AR-10 .308 rifle and was wondering if anyone had any comments as to the "felt" recoil.   I have not shot my bolt action 30-06 in quite some time but I always remember during deer hunting season the recoil shock and how I never really felt it was ever justified over say an 30-30 Win. which was much more manageable despite not having quite the power.  I felt the  30-30 was a MUCH better EDC rifle despite not having quite the power.  IMHO it was worth the trade off.

So the question follows..in an AR10 some of the recoil of the .308 would/should ?? be absorbed by the buffer tube/spring....but how effective is it over a std. bolt action/wood stock?? Could an AR 10 produce similar (less..??) recoil than an 30-30 with a wood stock..??

7
General Firearm Forum / Red Dot Optics
« on: October 30, 2015, 01:58:00 PM »
Now I don't know much about red dot optics, but I paid $49 at the gun show for mine and I think it's fine.  Haven't shot
with it yet, but not sure (outside of serious hunters, competitors) who would need an $800 Aimpoint.  I was told by the
person at the booth that these things are like LCD panels and that there are only a few manufacturers of the basic units
regardless of who's name is on the outside...not sure if that's true or not.

I may find that I outgrow this thing quickly, but what I can say is that an optics specialist at the show had their own
brand for about $175 and it's similar to the highly regarded one Primary Arms sells.  I thought that mine looked just
as clear optically and the MOA on mine is noticeably smaller/clearer.  I don't know how anyone else feels about this but
if I were going to put any more money into optics it would be for a nice scope.

8
General Firearm Forum / 22LR Conversion Kits ??
« on: October 25, 2015, 06:04:04 PM »
Has anyone used any of the 22lr conversion kits that are available?  Seems that the CMMG is very well reviewed.  Just wondering if this has any LT ill effects on the barrel, particularly using 22lR brass tip as opposed to the soft lead.  In my case my rifle's 1/7 will over twist the 22LR and obviously won't be as accurate as a dedicated 22.   I ask this because the rifling was designed for 223/556 not the much shorter 22lr. 

This is a nice option to be able to plink inexpensively with just a drop in BCG conversion.

9
General Firearm Forum / Problems with MBUS Rear Sight
« on: July 19, 2015, 10:36:38 AM »
So I went to the Gun show yesterday and picked up some more items.  One was an Magpul MBUS rear sight.  Should be pretty easy to install just pull back the CH and BCG and thread on the P-tany rail line up hole with rail slot and put screw in.  Could not get the MBUS past the thin part of the rail end.  Then with tremendous force got it to the point in the picture below. Cannot get it any further w/o possibly damaging the poly sight. Watched a few Youtube vids and they seem to slide their MBUS on with about the amount of force you'd expect....far less than mine.  Even with a little silicone I can't get it any further and this is not far enough forward to reach the first slot in the rail.   

Anyone had this happen?

10
Main 80% Lower Discussion / Carbide bits
« on: July 15, 2015, 08:09:56 PM »
Did a little reading on carbide bits and was shocked to find out that they were recommended for cement..??...and masonry...? 

http://www.lowes.com/projects/woodworking-and-crafts/drill-bits-buying-guide/article

And that black oxide, titanium and cobalt were recommended for various metals.  The latter for aluminum specifically.

Why then do kits from Modulus, 80percent arms and others include a carbide bit for aluminum lowers??

While I only referenced one site, I found similar info on others.


11
Main 80% Lower Discussion / So here we go.....!
« on: June 28, 2015, 01:44:19 PM »
Not as bad as I thought it would be. Of course I started on my Poly rather than my 6061 T-6.  No doubt that aluminum will be much tougher to drill/mill.  I also have to develop more respect for the edge of the template.  As you can see I really scarred the trigger template with the router. This is because I was routing from above rather that using the router window to from the side to just kiss the sides. Nice thing about milling the trigger slot is that if the first cut is good it will guide you down and the only one that matters is the final couple passes since the rest will be milled out when the FC pocket is done.  I was a little weary about the depth gauge for the FC pocket.  If you look at the photo, unless I'm missing something it looks deep enough to cut all the way though.  I left it about an 1/8" short just to be sure.
I can mill it down with the router on a plunge cut.

12
80% Lower Deals / [EXPIRED] The celebration has started!
« on: May 21, 2015, 07:19:18 PM »
Ok ....so PSA doesn't sell 80% lowers.  But they do sell everything else you'll need once your lower is complete.  Just thought
I'd share this info for those that weren't aware.  PSA has had a clearance running for awhile and now for Memorial day they've add free
shipping on many items/kits.  I picked up the carbine 1/7 16" melonite barreled  upper for $199 and paid no shipping or tax.
Take a look.


http://palmettostatearmory.com/

13
80% Lower Laws, Legalities and News / Mailing a completed 80% Lower
« on: May 03, 2015, 06:11:12 PM »
Here is the question I have.  I know you cannot sell a completed 80% lower w/o FFL.  I also know you CAN legally give one away to friends/family.  But what about if you complete
a lower as a gift, box it up and send it through the mail to someone? 

I know when I sent my Ruger in for warranty service, Ruger could only mail it back to the sender address and required signature of the addressed recipient. Any other address had to be an FFL dealer.

 

14
As I look around at all the Jig offerings from different companies I see some pretty good products. What most do is assume you'll be using a drill
press as the lock down nuts/screws for the top plate are not recessed.  There are numerous products out there that if the top screws were just counter synced to allow
a smooth top surface, a router would always be possible even if the top surface are weren't necessarily ideal.  I don't know how they could have overlooked this?  I see many inexpensive jigs that seem solid and while not ideal, if the screws were recessed would allow the end user to use a simple router rather than an expensive mill or drill press with
x-y vise. 

I'm thinking that possibly Gen1 of 80% completion was Drill press centered and Gen2 which is emerging (80%, Modulus) will be router based with many more offerings to come.




15
Main 80% Lower Discussion / Dealing with bare aluminum corrosion
« on: April 15, 2015, 07:32:08 PM »
A topic I haven't been able to find much on in finishing 80 percents is the issue of bare aluminum corrosion.  While aluminum doesn't "rust" it does corrode.  Once you've drilled/milled out the fire control pocket on a lower how do you protect the unfinished aluminum from corrosion?  Does Aluma-Hyde work for this or are there other solutions like fine oil or protectants like Renaissance?  I've seen many a photo of finished FC pockets but nothing on protecting the bare aluminum.


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