FYI the 80percent Arms Easy Jig 2 will in fact work with a New Frontier C-45 lower billet.  You just have to remove the ejector, while milling.  Also the upper "take up" screw should be removed, as it may vibrate free while milling.  I would also tape up the magazine release areas to prevent contamination.

Thanks for the follow up. That's good info to know.

FYI the 80percent Arms Easy Jig 2 will in fact work with a New Frontier C-45 lower billet.  You just have to remove the ejector, while milling.  Also the upper "take up" screw should be removed, as it may vibrate free while milling.  I would also tape up the magazine release areas to prevent contamination.

Thanks. that seems to be the consensus.  From the pics of the billet, the mag well (trigger side) ends in the same place and should not interfere with the jig. Ghost guns tells me their cerakote billet is a New Frontier arms billet.  Price is reasonable vs setting up to cerakote myself one time.  Also the ejector can be removed before inserting in the jig and the mag release can be left in.  I think this may be my next project.

I haven't milled one but I'd expect it would work fine basically for the reasons you laid out. As long as the pivot/takedown pins are correct, which they'd have to be, it will align in the jig.

Has anyone milled an New Frontier C-45 billet on the new 80%arms Easy Jig Gen 2 Multiplatform™ 80% lower jig (capable of finishing AR-15, AR-9, and DPMS gen 1 pattern .308 80% lowers)?
https://www.80percentarms.com/collections/lower-jigs/products/easy-jig-gen-2-combined-ar-15-and-308-jig?

https://www.newfrontierarmory.com/shop/80-c-45-billet-lower/

I saw an old post where someone did manage to do just this with some modifications to the GEN 1 Jig. The billet is supposedly MILSPEC except for the mag well/release & ejector.  I would think since you are only milling the trigger pocket and it should fit the GEN 2 Jig, this would work.  From 80percent arms: " The New Frontier Armory Lower receivers should work with any of the GEN 2 Jigs as long as it is still a mil spec pattern."

BTW here's a pre-coated version someone was looking for:
 https://www.ghostguns.com/home/338-black-ar45-10mm-45-acp-80-percent-lower-receiver.html

Hi to all, I'm a newbie here and wanted to share a good supplier for parts kits I found through a Gunsmith friend. I have already bought a Colt AR kit for an 80% build and am looking at parts for a PF940 I am planning on doing, the prices are better then what I have been finding for Glock factory parts elsewhere. Its: everygunpart.com thanks for all the solid info I have gotten here, I figured it was time I contribute as well.

Couple questions.  First, which parts would you use for a reasonably priced Glock 32 build (already got the Polymer 80)?  Which slide, barrel, etc.

Second, which parts from above would you change out so you have a ported barrel and slide?  Thanks.

Quote from: Jefe on July 19, 2018, 07:27:48 PM

Welcome, Chase! The anodizing shop should do any surface prep work but some raw receivers need more work than others. For example, I used a Nodak Spud receiver and it needed to have some casting flashing sanded off. If you're going to have the receivers engraved you might want to do that before they are machined into "firearms" so any engraving shop can do the work and not just a shop with a license to do so. The same goes for the anodizing. If it is machined into a lower receiver the shop will need a license to work on firearms. Cause government.

Thanks for the warm welcome, Jefe!

As far as the FFL restrictions, I've already considered that. Fortunately, both my local jeweler/engraver/gun pusher and the local anodizing shop are FFLs. Having said that, though, I think I'll go ahead and have any engraving and anodizing done before any work is completed on the lower.

If your guys can do the work after machining then definitely do that. You don't want to put money into engraving and then have the possibility of screwing up the lower, especially on your first one(s). And ideally anodizing should be done after machining so the parts you drill/mill will be anodized and dyed too.

Do you have a link to the reamers you bought/used? That actually sounds like a better plan than a plain ol' drill bit anyway.

Well you are still going to need to have a drill press. When I drilled out the hole i had to align the drill with the hole making sure it was in the center since it will be smaller than the hole on the jig plate. Then drilling it and if you can find reamers that are the same length as your drill you can just switch them and ream right through. But reamers are tipicaly longer. I'm actually a tool grinder so I made my own reamers. There are a couple of websites that you can get reamers from. Most places sell them in sets though.
 
Hope this helps.

I did not have the drill stabilizer. My buddy has it and it still feels looser than I would like. I recommend that if you do use the hand drill set your jig on the ground and get as sturdy as possible. The side without the detent hole worked OK but didn't have a good finish but would work. I ended up getting some reamers and thats how I will do the rest of mine.

Do you have a link to the reamers you bought/used? That actually sounds like a better plan than a plain ol' drill bit anyway.